Model B Instructions

Depending on the application of the frequency instrument and the electric power at the location in which it is used, the purchaser is strongly cautioned to CAREFULLY read this section and decide if the unit is going to need an AUXILIARY GROUND WIRE. This must be determined again any time the unit is used in a new location, even when it is moved from one room to another in the same building.

For applications in the laboratory, home electronics projects, or other uses where greater precision is required, or when used with an amplifying device, an auxiliary ground wire is highly recommended. (see 9. & 10.)

1) FOR EXPERIMENT ONLY

The frequency instrument is designed for experimental purposes only. There are no medical claims made by the manufacturers. The PURCHASER assumes all liability for damages, and any other personal injury incurred by any person allowed to operate this device.

2) METER

No meter is installed on this device.

3) COUNTER

The backlit LCD counter will count the precise frequency to the nearest whole number and display a new count in intervals of 0.1 seconds. When the counter reads 3, the number of output pulses per second will be three hertz. When the counter reads 2000, the number of pulses per second will be two thousand.

The output SIGNAL is analog. The displays are digital. This display is not able to read fractions of hertz. Output is capable of approx. .00001 of a hertz in range A. For greater tuning accuracy, use an external, high accuracy counter.

4) POWER

Should you find that when you plug in the device, you can hear the cooling fan running, but the red light is out or is very dim, you will need an auxiliary ground wire at that location. If it does not have a good ground it will begin to produce dangerous current spikes.

When the auxiliary ground wire has been added, and the light still does not come on, or is not bright, the device may still be safe to use. (Test output with a separate tester or meter.) This may mean that the electric wiring in that location has reversed polarity. This will not affect the device’s output signal. It will require a 230v down-step to 115v converter of at least 50 watts capacity for applications in countries. other than the U.S…

5) AMPLITUDE

Like any volume control, turn clockwise to increase. The vernier dial should be turned slowly. The lever on the side of the knob, slides to the right to lock the control. This knob will rotate ten (10) times from zero to maximum. It will read 1 at one turn, and up to 10 turns.

6) FREQUENCY

The coarse frequency adjust knob controls the output frequency from minimum to maximum in ten(10) turns. The fine adjust knob is 1O times as precise as the coarse adjust.

It is normal for the frequency to take a few minutes to settle down after the device has been turned on. Let the unit warm up. Variations in frequency are normal. Higher frequencies will generally vary more than the lower ones. Amplitude will affect frequency a smaller overall percentage in C & D Ranges. Frequencies are more stable toward the low end of each Range.

7) RANGE

The range selector is a switch that changes the frequency potential from low (A) to high (D). The total potential of the four ranges combined varies from one unit to another. This average is approximately 0 to 30,000+ cycles per second, to 0 to 40,000+ cycles per second. Each range is overlapping. Range A will produce a maximum frequency that is slightly higher than the lowest frequency of B, and so on...

8) POLARITY

 The polarity switch reverses the polarity of the output of all sets of OUTPUT jacks. Many lead sets are NOT marked positive or negative.

To determine which side of either jack or lead is positive or negative, the side of the jack or the lead that produces the signal (live) will always be the positive side. The other side of that lead set is ground. Mark them if they are not marked. Note which position the POLARITY switch is in.

9) POWER CORD

This is a 3 pronged appliance cord like the ones used with computers.

CAUTION: If the device should perform erratically, or respond slowly, it may not be grounded.

If you use an adaptor to make it possible to plug into a two spade household outlet, you must be sure that the adaptor is installed correctly, and the wire or loop that makes the ground circuit is firmly connected. This will not work if the junction box in which the outlet is mounted is not grounded. Do not assume that simply because you have properly installed an adaptor, that the unit is grounded. Many junction boxes are not grounded, or their grounds have deteriorated over time. When in doubt, use the BINDING POST.

10) BINDING POST

The Binding Post is located on the top of the unit and is provided for easy, quick connection to ground, when no grounded outlet is available. It has a cap that unscrews far enough to expose the post itself, but the cap is not intended to come off.

The post is a steel stud, with a small hole bored through it to accept a bare wire. You would then tighten the cap to secure it. You may have to use the ground site that was intended for your house current. This is usually a clamp that holds a heavy solid core wire to a water pipe. They are sometimes soldered directly to the pipe, and they are not always easy to find. Have an electrician add your ground wire to the clamp if that is convenient, but be sure that the contact areas are cleaned and any wire that was already there, is replaced and reclamped carefully.

Another, often easier method of creating a guaranteed ground, is to use the GROUNDING SPADE, not provided. A suitable hole must be bored and tapped to accept a machine screw, 440 is okay for a trowel, larger for a shovel or garden spade. To secure the wire very firmly to the metal of the tool. The blade must not be very rusty or painted.

The advantage to using a spade, is that you can easily remove it, when you move your unit, and it will work in most locations. The disadvantage to using a spade is that your soil must be thoroughly dampened, and if you move your unit around quite a lot, it may be a problem for some people to handle. An alternative to the spade, is to clamp the wire to a water pipe. To do this, you must be absolutely sure that it is a water pipe. No PVC pipe (plastic). (Sounds dumb, but it has to be said: NEVER GROUND TO A GAS PIPE.)

If you are using insulated wire, strip ½ inch at one end. Insert this end into the hole in the binding post, and lock down by tightening the cap.

 11) FUSE

The fuse holder is located on the right-hand side, has a quick release cap that is depressed while turning counter clockwise to remove, and clockwise to replace. It holds a 2.5 AMP fuse. Do NOT try to inspect the fuse while the instrument is running.

12) OUTPUT

The two sets of twin output ports (jacks) share the same source. Each port will deliver the total output (about 1/40oth amp) with amplitude at maximum. The full 33 milliamperes will be channeled through one port when only one at a time is used.

13) SURGE PROTECTOR

Adequate surge protection is built into the device. (600 volts) If surges are detected in the output of the unit, check or replace the auxiliary ground wire if you have one.

If excessive electrical surges are common at the location, and a surge protector is used, the output of the device may be interrupted temporarily, while the surge protector is holding back a power surge. Sudden increases in output may result when the surge is over. It is recommended in these cases to use a surge protector that contains a power supply, or uses other means to maintain a constant house current.

14) INTAKE FILTER

The air intake is designed to flow about twice the capacity of the cooling fan. This cooling is essential to the continued life of the instrument. It must not be blocked during operation. The prop-stand on the back of the device and the location of the power cord receptacle tend to prevent this blockage. Should the unit overheat, it will discolor the paper label, indicating that the unit needs an inspection at the factory. 

15) WARRANTY

This product was retired in 2004. No machines of this design have been produced since then. A qualified radio/TV repair technician should be capable of performing any replacement of parts that will be required. Vacuum tubes have a life expectancy of about 1O years, and may be replaced easily. [As of this update in 2025, these vacuum tubes have long been obsolete and may be unattainable.] Due to the nature of the product, and the contract under which it is manufactured, there will be no refunds.

16) SPECIFICATIONS

The exact specifications for each instrument are different. The unit is constructed within the correct parameters for the purposes for which it was intended.

There are variables within the make of each component that cause the total output voltage to vary, a small percentage, from one unit to another. The total frequency potential of each unit will also vary. This is because each unit must be adjusted separately. For most, it is not important that range A reaches a few hertz more on one unit than does on another.

Range settings A through D always overlap, allowing the full range of frequencies. Any changes in application parameters that may become available as the result of future research, will most likely be executable with this device.

The device is capable of producing more voltage than is thought to be needed for human or veterinary transcutaneous applications, and can produce frequencies higher than are needed. IT IS THEREFORE DANGEROUS FOR CHILDREN, and must be used at settings appropriate to the impedance of the individual. Maximum output could cause death to some people if used negligently.

The frequency instrument is designed to last for 20 to 30 years or more, and in that time, new things will undoubtedly come to light

The minimum output is set at the factory to about 3 volts. The maximum frequency potential is always set to exceed 20,000 cycles in RANGE D. Any attempt to change internal settings may result in damage to the unit and voids the warranty.

17)  HANDLING

• The frequency instrument is a hand constructed electronic appliance that employs electron tubes. There are parts inside that may break if the device is handled roughly.
• As with any piece of home electronics, humidity and water can damage the equipment Do not expose to excessive heat
• Although the unit can be stood up on one end for easy carrying, it is designed to be supported by the folding stand on the bottom of the unit
• NEVER block the cooling fan. To do so may result in the unit overheating, and cause severe damage to internal components. The fan uses a dry bearing, and must not be oiled. If the fan should become noisy, it may need to be checked for small pieces of debris which may become lodged there.
• Do not allow the device to rest on its knobs.
• Do not enclose the unit in any soft carrying case along with containers of liquids.
• To clean the device, wipe with a soft dry cloth. If it becomes very soiled, apply a small amount of household window cleaner, or Endust for Electronics to the cloth to remove dirt and fingerprints. Alcohol or more powerful chemicals will damage the label and other plastic parts.
• Should the power cord become damaged or lost, you can replace it with any (US) computer power cord.
• Specialty leads can be adapted from stereo and microphone cabling for recording sessions to be used with spectral devices such as Model A and related types.

All approved leads, lead extensions, electrode pads and other useful accessories can be found here: https://jwlabs.com/3-rife-accessories/

For help and other product support, reach out to us at [email protected]

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